I harvest and pull the shelling pea plants out of the garden in late June, about a month before the snap peas are finished. This spacing works because the shelling peas are much shorter than the snap peas in both plant height and crop lifespan. In this plan I have a row of shelling peas in front of a row of snap peas in a bed that’s less that 2 feet wide. Bok choy thrives in the cool spring months, but starts to bolt when the weather warms, so I also harvest the last of these heads and replace them with a round of warm-season head lettuce. I harvest the last of these heads and replace them with peppers and a cucumber cage of sour gherkins. Throughout the spring, I harvest my first planting of head lettuce. Later in the month, the first successions of the season are planted. In early May I plant my summer crops and many cut flower transplants. In other years, I would have probably divided the space dedicated to beets in half and added a planting of carrots. I just happened to be really into beets at this time, so I dedicated a lot of space to them. Everything in the diagram, except the garlic, was planted during these early spring months. The first image shows the garden in mid-March and April. The crops in bold are the ones that were planted during the time period discussed in each map. However, I am hoping this particular year feels accessible to most gardeners- and it shows just how much food you can grow in a relatively small amount of space.Ī quick note on reading the maps below: (T) means the crop was planted in the garden as a transplant and (D) means that the crop was direct sown. In most years I am lucky enough to have more growing space than this (and I’ll take every square foot I can get!). It consists of two 4’ x 8’ beds and a surrounding 2’-wide L-shaped bed. ![]() I chose the following crop plan because this garden is similar in size to many home gardens. To illustrate these concepts, I’m going to walk you through the crop cycle over one year in my home garden. ![]() (See: Growth Form)Ĭoncentrations of the same crop family are easier to manage-to apply fertilizers at the right time, thin the plants, etc.Įven within the bounds of these rules, there are infinite crop combinations. ![]() By planting your crops in groups, it’s easier to keep compatible plants together and incompatible plants apart. Some crops have growth forms that make them incompatible with other plants. When a particular crop is ready to be removed from the garden, you will be able to clear a whole row or section of the bed, leaving adequate space to plant another crop. This has several advantages, including the following: We organize our plantings to make ongoing maintenance as easy as possible.įor gardens to be productive and tidy, we make sure they have plenty of light, water, and nutrients we work to keep pest pressure low and we succession plant new crops all season long.Ī key to our crop planning system is that we plant in individual rows and/or groups of the same crop. Our garden plans are devised to maximize the garden’s productivity, while keeping them neat and tidy. As a result, there’s lots of conflicting information out there to confuse the well-intentioned researcher.Īt Seattle Urban Farm Co., we create plans for 70 gardens each year. There are many different schools of thought on how to plan and layout annual crops. Crop planning for the vegetable garden often feels overwhelming to new (and experienced) growers.
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